Heater decoupled ?!?!?
I'm at a stage to give up. Problem, after problem/......
First, Nomather what I tell to the printer (firmware or EEPROM), EVERY TIME when I send G32 S0, THE FIRST row after G32 S0 in the log is: "Autoleveling is disabled"?!?!?!?!
I set "Autolevel active" to "1", I send S320 S2 - NO change.... AND ofcourse, because my bed is not perfect, the first pass is allways problematic!!!
HOW to enable this st...d "Autolevel" ?????
Second: After pausing print (because of WRONG Z0) followed by "Emergency Stop", printing proces do not start any more until restart the host !?!?!?! What is this? Why? It is normal after "Emergency Stop" everything to go to initial state... or?
Third: In the middle of the print (usually on the third layer) I receive: "Heater decoupled" and the extruder stops?!?!? The print proces (without extrusion) continue!!! WHY ???????????
Am I so stupid or what???
Comments
By the way, the bed matrix was not correct and that's why occurs this all topic! If is possible I will send it to you.
17:29:08.387 : N71 M140 S120 *112 - start the bed heater
This "problematic" sensor in that case is the bed sensor. PIC1
Pl;ease help me...
The nozzle is marked as 0.4 mm. I set it even to 0.25 mm, but the gaps between lines are still seen. And this problem is from the second (and bigger) layer, no mater I set 100% infill. In addition I can't receive smooth lines.
I think the problem is with my filament - it is noname. I have to extrude it on a very high temperature - 268°C. Even at that temperature it flows very tough trough the nozzle.
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where is: Config->Repetier settings->Behaviour
Config->Preferences->Basic Settings->Behaviour
message was for a older version.
Do not put too much into the preview if you are talking about that. It does not necessarily use your slicing parameter so gaps there are ok.
268°C for which type of filament? For pla it is very high, abs also a bit. Might be the wrong thermistor setting so these are not your real temperatures.
BTW, I have seen this "Decoupled" issue when a fan turns on. In my case it was the fan that cools the print. It also cooled the head enough to cause the firmware to abort with decoupled error.
I know that the "decouple failure" can cause some false triggers if not set up correctly, but have you seen how quickly the heater cartridge heats up to smoking temperature if it detaches from the head? Takes about 5 seconds to start smoking. And if the thermistor disconnects from the head then it will melt a J-Head in about 90 seconds, probably catch fire in 120 seconds.
I mostly now only have decoupled errors if I reheat the head while it is cooling down, it takes too long to go from falling temp to raising temp, then it fails. But to me that is comforting to know that the decoupled feature is still working...
Looks like it has wrong steps/mm.
Or you have wrong steps/mm on X and Y. Is the printed part the correct size?
X / Y stepps are 99.5% correct - checked many times!
DBSDBS, I have written a formula in excel before to convert those values to real resistance values, but I can't remember how I did it. can you post the line from the table where the temperature, the right column, contains 20 or 21 or 25? Then I can try and figure out again how to convert the counts to resistance as required by the configuration file.
Thank you,
Errol
Also, you must look at the gcode generated. There might be a retract before you run G92 E0, which means that that retract is never restored. This will cause a long print with no plastic coming out.
I tested with 0.15; 0.20; 0.25; 0.3 mm - the results ware the same
I really had retract after the brim, BUT removed it. Here is the code:
;