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Davinci 1.0 AoI w/ Repetier

JustMeJustMe
in Repetier-Firmware
I recently purchased a Davinci 1.0 AoI off Craigslist without actually seeing it operate, might have been a mistake, but mistake made.  It was upgraded to Repetier 0.92 (although I don't know what sub version) and has a what I was told was an upgraded basalt bed.  I have not yet hooked it up to my computer, but I have played around with it and found a few things:

1) Auto-bed leveling doesn't seem to work.  I attempted it, and it pushes the nozzle into the bed, and the bed actually visibly shifts, and then the LCD reports "Fail" on the first probe point.  I have heard that the glass bed had some sort of metal contact on it which was used to detect when the Z-probe made contact.

2) I can't figure out how to properly manually level the bed. I was told to do a "Home All", disable the steppers, and then slide the nozzle over the bed and make sure I can just barely slide a sheet of paper between the bed and the nozzle as I move the nozzle over the bed.  However, even when the thumbscrews are adjusted all the way and the bed is as low as possible, the nozzle is too low to move over the bed.  I presume this can be fixed by re-setting the Z "Home" point.  I think the basalt bed is probably thicker than the original glass bed and this might be the problem.

3) The extruder definitely heats up, as does the bed.  However, the bed heat seems to come from the front the bed and spread out.  It seems like there is a heater under the bed (possibly at the front of the bed) which gets up to temp relatively quickly but then takes a long time before the bed actually gets to that temperature.  If the temperature feedback is on the heater and not the top of the bed (where it counts) I have to assume there is going to be some temperature error even after it comes to steady state, and clearly you'd have to wait quite a while for the temperature to get to steady state.

4) Is there an easy way to determine the version of the firmware (full version), or should I just re-flash it?  If I do reflash it, do I have to hit the jumper to clear it?

5) Any estimate as to when Horus will support the built in scanner?

Any thoughts on any of these (particularly the manual bed leveling which seems more critical at this point?)

Comments

  • JustMeJustMe
    C'mon guys, 22 people viewed and absolutely no advice on how the Z-probe works or how to properly level it or how to reset the home-Z position? (which appears to use an optical interrupter sensor -- do I just move the sensor -- if that's even possible?)
  • IanIan
    Hi JustMe

    I have a Davinci 1.0A and is quite satisfied using it with Reptier 0.92 and Slic3r. So no scanner on mine.

    Q5) No comment.

    Q4) When you turn on the printer, the firmware version is shown on the display. But yes, to reflash, you need to hit the jumper. This "erase" the firmware from the eeprom so you can upload the firmware again.

    Q3) The heat for the bed is generated from thin/flat wires on the glass bed. Like your car's rear window demister. This should provide even heating of the bed. I noticed that the sensor for the bed temperature is at the rear, center. It is a good practice to give the bed sufficient time to stabilise, and the heat to distribute evenly.

    Q1&2) Your bed leveling seems tricky. For auto leveling/probing, you will notice a tiny pin to the left of your extruder nozzles. This pin will touch the metal plate on the corner of your bed during auto leveling, closing an electric circuit, like a switch. If this does not happen (ie the probe is not positioned over the corner plate) then it is likely that your printer is not correctly configured for Repetier, or the position of the corners are not correctly defined in the firmware. Locate this youtube video for setting up the printer: 

    The problem with the extruder hitting the bed seems like a problem with settings. Start by confirming that your printer configuration is correct (use the youtube video as a guide).

    Hope this get you pointed in the right direction.
  • JustMeJustMe
    Thanks for getting back to me... 

    4) I found a System Version and it reported: "Da Vinci 1.0 1.14-11-27_1.1A Repetier 0.92Mod".  I'm guessing that November 27th, 2014.  I can't for the life of me figure out what is new in each version....

    3) The heat does appear to stabilize, although I should probably confirm that with an IR camera/thermometer, it seems to take a while though (maybe 10-20 minutes, long after the printer reports that the bed is at proper temperature) and it seems to radiate out from the front of the bed to the back.

    2) I see the z-probe, however, the bed surface appears to be 100% basalt.  Absolutely nothing conductive.  Also, the nozzle seems like it might be extending down below the pin.  Again, I was told this was not the original bed that the previous owner cracked the original bed and replaced it with the basalt which he claimed was superior.  Is the conductive surface, simply conductive (where the probe has two tips which are shorted by the surface) or does it have to be connected to a ground somewhere?  It's possible I could simply cover some portion of the bed with a conductive copper tape.

    I played with it a little more.   When I hit "Home All" on the printer menu, it takes it to z = -.5 mm.  This puts the tip of the nozzle below the bed surface.  I raised the bed to -4mm using the control panel.  If I try to raise to -5mm, it doesn't move, although the Z value claimed it went to -5mm.  There is a metal tab that is sticking through what appears to be a photo interruptor.  I think it stopped moving because I hit the interruptor/limit switch,  There is no adjustment in this, it appears to be fixed.  So, what I assume I want to do is be able to adjust the "Home" value for Z.  The video shows adjusting the "Park" value, but I don't think those are the same thing.  It also warns me that "Real Z" is unknown when I try this.I presume it moves the nozzle out of the bed, raises the bed until the interruptor triggers, and then learns the "Real Z" value (presumably somewhere between -3 and -4mm, and then moves it to the "Home value."
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