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Stringing after ALL known fixes applied

sheardershearder
in General
Hey all

OK so a little back ground.

8 years in 3d printing!
I build a D-bit that i am using Repetier on. I use repetier on another printer for almost 2 years. SO I LIKE IT!!

I am experiencing stringing - it is light as spider web but still there!

BEFORE i go further IS the ANYTHING in the firmware i can change or try??

Ok, so; now officially the only thing I haven't tried is changing boards or drivers or voltage of the drivers or changing any wiring etc.

Regardless of anything the stringing is EXACTLY the same. Like fine spider web..

I am stumped 

Ok I have posted this in other groups.

In short this is what I have done:

1. Adjusted retraction between 1mm @ 15mms to 30mm @ 350mms
2. Adjusted temps from 220 down to zero extrusion temp
3. Changed stepper motors 
4. Changed bowden tube
5. Changed nozzle sizes
6. Adjusted filament size
7. Adjusted extrusion rate
8. Adjusted move speeds 
9. Changed the bowden couplers
10. Changed heat break throat
11. Changed heating element
12. Changed heatbreak fan positions
13. Changed filament types and colours
14. Designed a different stepper mount closer to the carriage and shortened the bowden tube from 400mm to 250mm
15. Changed the extruder itself
16. Adjusted firmware settings
17. Changed e3d hotend to chimera
18. different layer fans

The results have proven that the silk strings are consistently the same. Which is good BUT there is still stringing.

Oh I have even used a fine file to smooth the  nozzle tip and I still get a spider web. Literally as fine as spider silk.

What are your EXTRUDER acceleration and jerk settings? Not sure if that would affect it.

BUT we are never too old to learn and maybe someone has experienced this. I.e. literally done EVERYTHING And then figures it out...

Tnx

Comments

  • RAyWBRAyWB
    edited November 2018
    stringing is often issued by too high print  temperatures and slow travel speeds.

    may be this guide helps:


  • sheardershearder
    RAyWB said:
    stringing is often issued by too high print  temperatures and slow travel speeds.

    may be this guide helps:


    Thanks - been through them all. Yeah after 8 years this is one of the very simple things to fix but not in this case. So i am wondering if there is something else that someone has picked up other than speed temp movement extrusion rate cooling etc etc.

    I am also wondering if number of steps that the drivers are set to makes a difference. i.e. 1/16 or 1/32 or half step or full step etc... not sure for the extrude what is nest - i never thought about it before.
  • RepetierRepetier
    Speed is always limited by steps you can signal. So 1/16 instead of 1/32 only makes sense if you did exceed possible stepper frequency with retraction speed. Otherwise it will do nothing. Bowden requires more retraction then direct drive. One of my bowden needs 3mm the other 7mm which is quite high. If you really had 350mm/s speed is not sure. You easily loose grip on filament and if it ha a high steps/mm resolution it may not be able to run that speed.
  • sheardershearder
    Yeah i set it to 350mm and upped the minimum speed in the FW as well - not sure if it even got to 350mms lol but regardless, i still have the stringing. I am looking in any place other than the normal culprits because i am really stumped.
    so all i haven't tried is jumpers and steps and a new board.
  • sheardershearder
    or upped maximum speed rather!
  • RepetierRepetier
    You already tested all reasons I know. Only thing left is that it is not retracting but slipping. Did you try if you extrude in free air, retract with your retraction settings and then go back it start extruding right away but does not really extrude while undoing retraction. Or even better if you make a mark where filament goes in and retract does it retract the right distance. That's the last idea I have I fear.
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