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x and y have issues

brickmakerbrickmaker
in Repetier-Firmware
When my print bed moves from a start position it sounds like a Thud or thunk sound. Once it starts moving then it sounds ok. I have used Marlin firmeware as well and it is quite with Marlin. I have this installed on a Lulzbot Taz 4 with a cyclops hotend. 

The Second issue is the X..... When I am printing a test cube and it moves the x axis. It looks like it has a twitch or jerk on its start position as well. 
PLEASE HELP ME FIX THIS. Thanks


Comments

  • brickmakerbrickmaker
    This is the config.h file 
  • RepetierRepetier
    If starting is a problem it is either jerk or acceleration. In your config acceleration for normal moves is 9000 which is quite high compared to your 500 for printing moves. Moreover check what is stored in eeprom as it overrides your config settings anyway.
  • brickmakerbrickmaker
    This is the eeprom settings. 
  • RepetierRepetier
    No it is the eeprom handling code.

    You see the eeprom settings if you open the eeprom settings in our host or server when connected. Then you see the assigned values and modify them directly without reuploading firmware.
  • brickmakerbrickmaker
    I was able to change the eeprom settings using repetier host and changed the x and y acceleration from 9000 to 500. This seems to fix the sound and looks like it is running smooth. BUT when i print a 20mm test cube it bends in plus looks bad. I am linking some pictures of the cubes. I am also linking a video of how the head moves. 



    printer video
  • RepetierRepetier
    Looks like extruder has some problems with your current settings. With what material and temperatures bed/filament are you printing? Looks like at the top it gets better. With increasing print time the hotend gets warmer, so I guess you simply need to print 5-10°C hotter. Also the top shows that filament extruded breaks to easy which is normally when too cold.
  • brickmakerbrickmaker
    I am printing with abs at 220 with a bed temp of 100. If i need to change the current settings what would i need to change or check? 
  • RepetierRepetier
    abs with 220 is still quite low - check your abs vendors advice for temp. range and know that temp. you see is not what filament gets. There is always a deviation so vendor range+/-5° would not be a surprise. ABS has only a low range of temperature working well. Increase extruder temp. in 5° steps until print looks good. Also ABS is known to warp and shring, but that is more an issue with bigger objects.
  • brickmakerbrickmaker
    I got it all adjusted and prints looking good. My final question is when i do a prime piller to transition between colors the head waits in one corner of the prime cube and leaves a blob. This is a concern because after a while it is enough that the head nocks the prime piller and then it just makes a mess of the print bed. 
  • RepetierRepetier
    Welcome in world of multi color problems:-)

    The only more or less working solution is to cool down inactive extruder after retracting it a good way. First ooze should be catched up by a shield. On the other hand a hot hotend should keep it flexible anyway so you don't knock objects. The critical thing is having both extruders exactly same level and bed also level.
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