LINDEN Hello Paul, I have exactly the same printer! Stops working due to the fact that flew proshivka.Teper can not find a normal, rabochuyu.Esli have the opportunity to share with me прошивкой!Domovoy999918@gmail.ком.Буду very grateful!
Now there is a source code which works with this printer and keypad and is based on current 0.92.8 firmware. It is in git repository so can easily be rebased on top of new changes (unless author merges it in the master branch).
For Domovoy in Russian: есть рабочая прошивка и исходники. Исходники по ссылке выше, готовую прошивку могу выслать.
Eventually, they sent me one hex file, but it was Marlin.
I really wanted to use th Repetier on it, but the version on the boards they sold me were out dated and did not support autolevel.
I can tell you lots about that heat bed and how to make it work!
First of all, it is mounted the wrong way.
They have the copper traces from the heater board facing away from the aluminum bed, and so it is radiating heat down and away from the work.
Unfortunately, the way they wired the thermistor and some exposed pads in the middle of the board make it not a good idea to flip over without some additional parts and rework.
What I did to get around this was to purchase a roll of cork with an adhesive backing. at Home Depot.
From that, I cut out three layers to fit the bottom of the heater board and stick them on, one by one, using the adhesive backing. I also purchased a 5mm thick sheet of cork from eBay that was pre-cut for this and used it as well, however, you could just keep adding layers of adhesive backed cork because there is more than enough on the roll.
That helped tremendously, but it was still not hot enough to get 110C on the Bed for ABS.
You absolutely must upgrade your power supply to 30A or better. The 20A one that they supply is not strong enough.
I picked one up off of eBay for about 20 bucks. It even has a cooling fan, the cheap one from ZoneStar does not...
I removed the aluminum bed and print on the back of the PCB using an 8x8" borosilicate glass plate.
The problem here, is that if you do autolevel with an inductive sensor, losing the aluminum plate takes away that capability.
To get around that little problem, I purchased an 8x8" piece of thin glavanized steel sheet (Do Not Buy Stainless Steel! Most are alloy #304 (cheapest), which believe it or not, is non-magnetic and won't work!).
The thin galvanized steel piece works like a charm!
Also, being a better magnetic material than aluminum, the sensor is triggered a few millimeters above the 3mm thick glass plate, perfect.
I made an isolation chamber to keep breezes in the room from affecting the 3D printer heater from a large cardboard box.
I could send a picture, but it's fairly easy and fun to figure out based on the box you can find.
If you find a box larger than the printer, you can turn the box on its side, with the open top facing you.
Slide the printer in and make holes for the power cable, USB cable and filament.
Voila!
In my case, the box was slightly too small, so I then cut the top off with my pocket knife to allow the printer to poke through and then slid the cut piece of piece of cardboard back over the top to cover what I could and still let the printer stick out and not be impinged. I then trimmed the cardboard piece to match the rest of the box.
Hello, maybe you can help me with uploading a different firmware option to my Zonestar P802M. I don't care if it is Marlin or Repetier; all I want to do is add auto leveling to the printer and 0.91 that came pre installed doesn't handle it. I have been all over the web and recently saw where the Melzi originally provided cannot support doing this because of the installed ATMega(?). Can you explain if it is possible, and how to accomplish the upload? I will greatly appreciate your response. Been at this for a few weeks.
I have designed an auto leveling technique which uses a switch inside the extruder mount for z-probing , thus no need for the servo. my switch is connected to the Z_max endstop pin . At the moment without the z_min endstop(used as z axis endstop) connected it works fine. I am looking for a way to disable the z endstop with Gcode before I run the G29 for auto leveling.
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