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Repetier Firmware on stock Ender 5 Plus

opy01opy01
in Motherboard
I've got an Ender 5+ and it has several issues that I am blaming on the factory Marlin firmware.  To begin with, auto bed leveling sucks on Marlin.  I much prefer Repetier after my last two builds.  But the main issue is I'm having extrusion issues kind of like the firmware has a minimum extrusion amount or something.  No matter the slicer, if I go below 0.2mm layer height it over extrudes like crazy.  I've never had this issue with Repetier.  But quite honestly, I don't like Marlin at all.

That being said, the chip is supposed to me an ATMEGA2560 (according to images on the web).  I can get the open source Marlin and verify pins and basic settings, but would I need to just choose "MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2" or the "RAMPS 1.3/RAMPS 1.4" in the configuration tool or is there a different one I need to use?

Comments

  • opy01opy01
    Just got the open source Marlin.  It's RAMPS 1.3.  Hoping I can get Repetier working on it better than Marlin.
  • opy01opy01
    It works... mostly.  I’m working on endstops and BLTouch now.

    But out of curiosity, is there anything useful for the Ender touch screen?  It should be the same as the CR10 display.  I have a spare to play with and was wondering if I needed to dig into DGUS programming and writing my own interface, if that’s possible.
  • RepetierRepetier
    There is no support for that display from our side. Is that one of these connected with serial?  We support a second serial but I doubt that the included software will understand our communication since responses differ a bit and also some g-codes differ. When you use it with repetier-server the easiest way would be a pi with touch screen instead to have local control.
  • opy01opy01
    Yea, I don't have a screen at all on my Hypercube and the Anet A8 LCD is so screwed up half the time.  I use the licensed version Repetier Server and either use the controls on it or the console to do everything.  My LCD on the Ender is behind my filament holder and hard to get to anyway lol.  My Pi is hidden and I opted out of the touch screen for it.

    I was just wondering if it was possible or if even looking into DGUS programming was worth it.  I've found a project out there on github for the Marlin version so that would not be too hard to port to Repetier, if I could handle the return messages.
  • opy01opy01
    edited December 2020
    Ok now I've come across an issue that I need clarification on.  I'm using the exact same settings for speed, acceleration and jerk as Marlin had but my Y axis is skipping.  Why would Marlin be able to handle these settings but Repetier cannot?  Or am I missing something?

    I thought it was the printer settings but now I think it's a communication issue.  When laying down my purge strip before starting the print it just stopped and sat there then went to the x position like Y had kept going.  X does not do it, just Y.  So I have no clue what's going on.
  • opy01opy01
    edited December 2020
    I never could get it to work right so I tried to load Marlin back on and that didn't work at all.  I even tried using their factory firmware but then started getting AVR errors in Repetier Server AND in Arduino.  

    I finally fixed my bootloader and got Repetier back on.  Any clue as to why the Y axis would just stop for a second then start going again?
  • RAyWBRAyWB
    sounds like overheating driver, try to reduce current  and cool the drivers.
  • opy01opy01
    I already thought of that.  With Marlin it prints fine at 0.2mm layer height.  I loaded Repetier with the same setting (in theory) and Y skips or just stops.  I reduced the current and the driver and stepper both are nice and cool.  It still did it.  I loaded Marlin back on and it prints perfect.  Why would Marlin print perfect and Repetier does not?

    Keep in mind there are other issues with Marlin that I want to get away from.
  • RAyWBRAyWB
    did you compare pin description marlin vs. repetier ? may be there is a mismatch , might be on enable pin of y driver?
    if possible, check enable pin by measurement if it changes when y axis stops
  • RepetierRepetier
    Also check if ALWAYS_CHECK_ENDSTOPS is enabled. If so a triggered y end stop (cross talk?) could prevent a Y move. Often it is best to have this set to 0 since many printers suffer cross talk from time to time.
  • opy01opy01
    edited December 2020
    @RAyWB I'll check the enable pin to make sure there is no mismatch, but it should be a standard Mega 2560 configuration.

    @Repetier Going to try it and see how it does.  I'll know shortly.
  • RAyWBRAyWB
    depending on the board you selected there are differences so the Mega2560 is just the controller , pinout depends on board variant. and Repetiers mention is also a possibility, crosstalk isn´t related to print position , it depends on wiring
  • RepetierRepetier
    Yes, cross talk does not care about position. Once we see line is high the y move is stopped when endstop check is active. And it can be any cable that is parallel to y endstop signal cable. That is why they should be all twisted to reduce this effect. Shielding would be even better but we all know they are normally not shielded. So twisting and position are the only defenses against this.
  • opy01opy01
    @Repetier That appears to have been the problem.  Thanks!  That was on by default in the web configuration utility and unless I know what it does I usually don't touch it lol.  It's odd because my other Mega 2560 had that set to 1 with no issues but my Due didn't and I don't remember ever changing the defaults.  Now I know :)

    I unplugged the display and set it to no dislay in the configuration and it saves space and processing power.  I may play wth the DGUS, if I have time.  Not a huge priority, just curiosity at this point lol.
  • opy01opy01
    Repetier said:
    That is why they should be all twisted to reduce this effect. Shielding would be even better but we all know they are normally not shielded. So twisting and position are the only defenses against this.
    I may do that later, but the Enders are all flat cables crammed through a tight hole.  But for now this works prefect.  Thanks again!

    On another note, you guys helped me with a bed issue on my AM8.  That printer got retired early but I used all that knowledge to make my Hypercube even better and now I will use it on my Ender.  This never ending fountain of knowledge is what keeps the hobby fun, even when it gets frustrating lol.
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