TronXY with Melzi V2.05 hex file too big - what do you recommend I remove. Thanks
Well after a long road I almost have my Tronxy 3X 3D printer with the Melzi V2.05 controller board upgraded to V0.92.9. I used the configuration.h file from a person in Germany who has the same printer I do. I seem to run into this problem. The hex file is too big.
See the messages below..
See the messages below..
Warning: Board arduino:avr:atmega664p doesn't define a 'build.board' preference. Auto-set to: AVR_ATMEGA664P
Warning: Board arduino:avr:atmega1284p doesn't define a 'build.board' preference. Auto-set to: AVR_ATMEGA1284P
Warning: Board arduino:avr:atmega1284p16 doesn't define a 'build.board' preference. Auto-set to: AVR_ATMEGA1284P16
Warning: Board arduino:avr:ADABoot1284Pst doesn't define a 'build.board' preference. Auto-set to: AVR_ADABOOT1284PST
Sketch uses 130584 bytes (100%) of program storage space. Maximum is 130048 bytes.
Global variables use 4394 bytes (26%) of dynamic memory, leaving 11990 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 16384 bytes.
Sketch too big; see http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#size for tips on reducing it.
Error compiling for board Sanguino.
The Sanguino controller board has a Atmega1284P chip on it. Again I used the configuration.h from
https://pastebin.com/apPtJPDS
as a starting point.
What do you recommend.
The Sanguino controller board has a Atmega1284P chip on it. Again I used the configuration.h from
https://pastebin.com/apPtJPDS
as a starting point.
What do you recommend.
Comments
#define ARC_SUPPORT 0
should give you that much. Slicers do not generate arcs anyway.
Thanks.... Note I am using an ISP connected to the Melzi V2.05 board with the USB printer cable connected to it also.
Almost there....
Richard
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src/SdFat/SdFat.h: No such file or directory I need to find a place to put these files.. checked Google and there were not real answers.. Your thoughts? I think this should take care of the SdFat problem.
I also see you have defined some symbols twice in configuration.h - last wins but it confusing to have it twice.
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I tried to upload the EEProm values via Avrdude and Repetier-Host but nothing took.
I use Repetier-Host to connect to the board and under Printer information I get
Mendel
Repetier 1.0.3
yet under Firmware configuration I do not get any values.. Any Thoughts????
.. I am looking into it.. and going to upload 0.91 to see if the process if correct. ie I get eeprom values from 0.91.
Note 0.91 load and I see the values... with out any additional uploading..
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/moz7tdp3nl4ajop/AAADJJvI2bLv_4D7DM2RDbToa?dl=0
This is the link to the files I have been using. Please look at Repetier-Firmware-2019-03-11. if you need any additional information Thanks .. Richard
I do not see the log files.. aren't they saves when the comments are saved???? Here are links from DropBox..please take a look at them.. they are small files..... Thanks
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lhiui328ztcfwhx/Repetier_Log_Cura_Engine_01A.txt?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cif8qmusvvwjgag/Repetier_Log_Prusa_slicer_01A.txt?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cunhd6ndezy1ycq/Repetier_Log_File_Test_01A.txt?dl=0
Does printer have main power enabled? Is here a separate fuse for heater outputs? Don't know the melzi boards so well, but I can see that firmware wants to heat bed and no temperature rise is present. I also saw that pin names were good, so you should measure if outputs get power when heating or not. If they are heating test if bed heater is maybe broken/shorted. If it gets no power test other outputs if they get power instead. Also check if you have a fan using same output pin. This is with RAMPS a problem as fan output and heater 2 output are the same pin.
Ok both .091 and 092.9 have pin 12 as the heater pin.. I will pull the board and check the Mosfet. give me a few days to get a new one.. Keep you informed.. Richard
You can try a simple sketch just setting the pins to output and high or low to verify hardware. Then you know no other code interferes.
We have no farenheit view and never had, so that is ok. Did you check eeprom after upload of 1.0.3? It might be that bad values for bed PID prevent it from heating. That is the last idea except dry run, but then extruder will also not run.
1)
in the pins.h melzi code there is a line that has -2 as a value.. I think it should be-1 as in....
2)
Ok the bed works now..I do not know it that was the problem... but the bed works now.... I will test 1.0.3 later in the day and see what happens...
HOWEVER...
the reason I thought there was a Fahrenheit problem was because the values on the display were zero... I have now figured out...when I use the Repetier host software and manually turn on the bed and extruder heater, the values on the display become active and change to zero when that item is turned off/deselected.. This did not happen in version 0.91... Quite a change.. I think V.91 did it better..The question is .. Is that Normal????
Also the temperature values may not be right. I am getting a temperature device and hope to test is soon.
So, let me know at the values going to zero when the bed or extruder is turned off in the Repetier host software. I will test V1.0.3 and get a temperature gun/laser to see if the temperature being display is correct.. this may take a few days..
OH, on the display, Z: is flashing ?.?? then 0.00.... any idea why that is???? on one page of the displays it list X,Y and Z with flashing ?.?? and then 0.00 mm with a open or closed dot next to them.... Any Idea what this is for???
Target temperature 0 is off that is right. Not sure where you see it. If it is the top status bar, you can edit the contents there and alternatively show current temperature. It just depends on the format string in the configuration. 0 was always off, so guess you are just confused by seeing the set temperature instead somewhere.
Test prints mainly depend on what you want to print in the end or what needs to be tested. Cubes are nice to see steps per mm is right and see how much ghosting you get at the letters. It also shows if extrusion is more or less good. For printing Visual objects that is already enough. If you want technical stuff with printed gaps to separate gears or hinges you need to calibrate extrusion and slicer much more to get the gaps as expected. This is quite tricky since some samples use bigger gaps then others just because the creators had better or worse settings.
A nice test for testing if you have not too much extrusion is printing a 20x20x10 Cube completely solid 100% infill. If you have too much it has no way to flow somewhere and it gets messy with all the extra filament. So if you see that you know extrusion multiplier for that filament must be lower. Normally it is better to have a slight underextrusion then overextrusion. Only if slight gets big underextrusion you get problems.