Print Stopped. How to Resume Print after Brown out.

Jdaniel8875

Printer stopped mid-print. I know what line of code the print stopped at so I deleted all code before that line in G-code editor. The problem I'm having is that I don't know how to bypass the printer's very first moves. Lining up to the center of the bed and then maxing out to flip the switch at 0 on Z axis. How do I bypass those beginning steps and go straight to my remaining code to finish my print? I am using a MacBook Pro if that matters at all...

Jdaniel8875

Works Only For Solidoodle Gen 4 Printer that I'm aware of! Bc that's what I have!!

So I ended up restarting the entire print due to unforeseen issues, but here's the hard way of fixing this problem.. I went by the last code printed in the log box at the bottom of repetier, which was not accurate!! Do not go by that bc apparently it loads code before it is applied to the print. Alright. Im going to cover everything in detail!

1 First thing: You do not move anything until you take notes of x, y, and z coordinates. I know that the first thing you want to do is get the printhead off of your print so it doesn't damage it, but I warn you DO NOT move the printhead until you know the x and y coordinates, Or the bed before you know the Z coordinate. Not knowing this is what threw me off. Knowing Z allows you to know what layer you were on last. Knowing x and y tells you which direction you were coming from and where you need to go. 

2 After taking note of x, y and z move printhead to home. 

3 Delete all code before the layer at which Z is currently at. Mine was at 15.9mm. Anything before that i did not need. Yes it sucks. 

4 Take your x and y coordinates, find exactly where that is in the Gcode editor on what is now your first layer. (Mine was layer 79.5. I had a .5 mm Z offset. So it was layer 79 and now its layer 1) *In actuality I was on layer 77 not 79! Remember the log is not accurate!* Now you want to run the code after where x and y are. So delete any x and y moves before where your last x and y coordinates were but not the Z code or the Frequency You will need these. Also Keep in mind the retractions and last direction where your printhead came from bc you want to run code after these last coordinates. 

5 Go through each LAYER of remaining code that needs to be printed and change Z. What I mean is that you need to make Z on what is now your first layer .1, .2, .3, or .4.  Whatever your resolution was set to on your print. Mine was .2mm resolution. So on my first layer I should now have G1 Z .2! and whatever code is also on that line. Then for each layer after that add .2 to Z. So now my second layer isZ .4, 3rd layer Z.6 and so on until all remaining layers have been changed. Any offset is still Automatically there bc we never resliced in SLICER!

6 When all of these steps have been followed, you need to postion the printbed (Z) wherever it was last... using the manual controls. Mine was 15.9mm so that's where I repositioned Z. 

7 Now this last step is the trickiest but all previous steps led to this one step so I could continue printing. We are making 15.9 the new 0 or home for Z. Which means, I can now avoid my printhead hitting my print on startup. This next part is very important. I positioned my tweezers that came with my printer over the "Z axis switch that clicks when it hits home" until it clicked while on 15.9mm ... but no further!! Remember my printbed is set to 15.9 but It will travel downward until it clicks again when it comes back up. So my tweezers became the new stopping point for 0. So while my tweezers were being held into position I hit run or play in repetier and the print continues.  Be careful not to let whatever you put there to stop the travel the of Z axis on startup ... move when you hit Run or play in Repetier. Doing so will change the height of Z. Also Before hitting run or play extrude enough filament until it comes out the nozzle bc you want to print right away so you'll need filament inside the printhead to extrude at the new starting point for the remainder of your print. And that's why i said keep in mind the retractions. My last print move was on a travel so it retacted .5mm. So when i was ready to start my print, I extruded like i said but then retracted .5mm. bc my code compensated for it. 

Alright well thats as descriptive as I can make these steps. I know it seems like a lot of work to save a print but i hope it helps anyone who doesn't want to wait 5 or 8 more hours when restarting a print. Its easier when someone lets you know what to do! And I have.. for free.. You're welcome!

Jdaniel8875

I was thinking about it and I need to clarify one thing about these steps. If you kill the job.. the offset you previously had will be added to the remainder of the code because it is like you are starting a new print. Every time you start a new print the offset will automatically be there. So you need to take it away. Do this by Subtracting the offset you had from Z on what becomes your first layer; meaning after you delete all that code that isn't needed this way every layer after that doesn't need to be changed again.