boelle
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- boelle
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specially if you like me dont know how to code. Oh well, i guess i have to stick to the mk2 bed i do have put out a few feelers and most say it would be awesome to have but no one have taken up the task of programming it
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https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/tree/MK2/Firmware mesh_bed_calibration.cpp & mesh_bed_calibration.h the 9 points are listed here: https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK2/Firmware/mesh_bed_calibration.cpp#L53
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prusa has allready written it for their "special" copy of marlin so cant it simply be taken from there?
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i think you completely missed the point here please reread the subject and explain to me how repetier currently will handle a skewed bed or frame that is skewed i think still that the prusa MK2 is the only one that can do that
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i have no idea on how to do this but this file looks interesting https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK2/Firmware/mesh_bed_calibration.cpp
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me would also think it would be great guess we just have to wait and see if anybody have tried it yer
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maybe this one is a good example: https://github.com/makertum/Trinamic_TMC2130/blob/master/Trinamic_TMC2130/examples/configuration_tool/configuration_tool.ino will have a closer look in a bit
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mostly interested in how to program it can i use an uno and a few test wires to program them? any sample sketch out there to use?
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could be nice with a "for dummies" example on how to setup the driver to set an output high when the driver stalls what i had in mind was to use this as a touch probe... no more extra wires for a servo etc
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oki doke i just wondered since i did not select a display
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good point :-D
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of course its a sold one, but if the timing data are not set by selecting the board it does not matter
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if i find the right values can my board be added as a selection in the drop down? if its not allready there
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i meant TB6560
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hmm seems more easy to replace the thermistor with a know type
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no loose connections http://imgur.com/32b1z52 but maybe some noise?
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i look at this guide in how to go from PID to dead time.... i can understand that you set the graph for 1 min, and that you make 2 straight lines croos... but still not sure how to get the right dead time number is dead time and P in PID the same?
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yep that was it.... just 1-2 distance does the trick
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think i found the error.... thermal contact with the fins section on my e3d.. the fins where VERY hot.... will let it cool and create som distance
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think that did the trick... i have set my z height to 0 as the nozzle is the probe... i then did a G29 S1 and took the height from there and put it in firmware then flashed firmware and did a M502 to erase old settings then G32 S2.... now the error …
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"If you are satisfied and if you have a z-max endstop you can also send a “G29 S2” to measure the print area height and store it in eeprom (S1 will only measure the height)." http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/z-probing/ could …
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now its 0.2 the other way... ie its now 0.2 to much so i have to raise 0.2 to get it right
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here is how i do it: 1. flash firmware2. M502 to delete old eprom settings (just to be safe)2. Home X and Y and place Z about 10-25 mm over bed3. G32 S24. M500 to store everything (again just to be safe..) i then then place a steel feeler blade unde…
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and i have also experimented with Z lenght.... no matter what i end up with about 0.2 to high
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btw.... when i do a G32 S2 i always end up with wrong 1st layer height... its about 0.2mm to high up... i have tried to set probe height to 0 as my nozzle is my probe... and i have tried with 0.5 my config: http://pastebin.com/f247tQUD
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so set to 0 to disable and increase to account for a bit of noise etc?
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found this one: #define EXT0_DECOUPLE_TEST_PERIOD 12000
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No it happens after heatup it started out with one of these bed level print that prints small squares that you can check to see if they are all the same and correct thickness... it prints a few squares and then suddenly filament gets thinner and thi…
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it happened again... it a bit random... same ms number but much lower temp could it really be noise from a fan? i use an all metal hotend... power wire is flat ribbon cable so i cant twist it.... are there any ways to check if its the fan? maybe di…
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thanks a lot... btw... how much is there to gain for a normal 3d printer (not delta) to reflash firmware with the same settings but just newer copy of firmware?