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HE K280 Calibration

FreakFreak
in Repetier-Host
I have a HE K280 printer and new to this. 

First off, I homed the printer successfully, but whenever I tell it to go down -10 mm, it goes down really slow and it doesn't stop. I have a feeling this has something to do with Travel Feed Rate or Z Axis Feed Rate? 

And are there any other tutorials on how to calibrate it with a auto level sensor? No offense but the link here is a bit confusing/it tells me to go into the firmware, which I don't think I want to do unless its necessary. 

Thanks 


Comments

  • RepetierRepetier
    That doc is for repetier-firmware that you build yourself. On a bought machie I would expect that they have confugred it already correctly so you can simply run the leveling commands for the used firmware (differs in code).

    Before going down check with M114 what firmware thinks where it is and what host thinks. If it differs after homing you need to configure host->printer settings->printer shape the coordinates after homing. Then 10mm move is also 10mm if steps per mm is correct.
  • FreakFreak
    Repetier said:
    That doc is for repetier-firmware that you build yourself. On a bought machie I would expect that they have confugred it already correctly so you can simply run the leveling commands for the used firmware (differs in code).
    So if I understand you, all I have to do is run M29 to allow the printer to auto calibrate it self with XYZ with the Z probe and I can theoretically start printing? Or the steps differ with each individual printers? Repetier said:
    Before going down check with M114 what firmware thinks where it is and what host thinks. If it differs after homing you need to configure host->printer settings->printer shape the coordinates after homing. Then 10mm move is also 10mm if steps per mm is correct.
    If steps per mm is wrong, I am able to change it via EEPROM? 
  • RepetierRepetier
    Since you mention M29 for auto level you seem to use Marlin. There steps per mm can be changed if eeprom support was enabled for compilation. But I assume this to be set correctly by vendor. What I meant is that if your printer does z max homing the first move may be unexpected if you have set wrong homing position in host (so host made wrong assumption).
  • FreakFreak
    Do you know any tutorials on how to adjust the steps per mm for a delta printer?
  • RepetierRepetier
    Repetier-Host has an eeprom editor for marlin to change all values. Works even without eeprom but only until next reset. Or alternatively check the gcode commands for marlin to find the right one, but editor is easier.
  • FreakFreak
    My bad, I’m not using Marlin. I’m using repetier firmware.
  • RepetierRepetier
    EEPROM editor for repetier is even better:-)
  • FreakFreak
    So whenever I tell the printer to move down 1, it just keeps going down until I have to cut the power. Any ideas why?
  • FreakFreak
    Nevermind 
  • FreakFreak
    edited December 2017
    I got it, but whenever I heat the extruder to 200C it starts smoking/fan isnt turning on. Could it be smoking because its the first time? But that doesnt answer the fan 
  • RepetierRepetier
    First you should tell us what fan you are talking about and what you expect. There is a extruder cooler fan that should turn on as soon as you have 50°C set or reached if configured. There is also a filament cooling fan that you can control with fan slider in repetier-host/server and only enables when commanded. Must of course also be configured.

    Smoking is not what I would normally expect except if you have some coating that melts on first use. PLA does not smoke and ABS only smells. If the thermistor type is wrong the real temperature is different then the shown one. Also if the thermistor has bad contact it will show lower temperatures. If you have a multimeter with temp. sensor you can use that to compare for big differences. If not just check at which temperature you can push filament through an duse that temperature.
  • FreakFreak
    Thanks, I took apart the fan and the motor was bad. Wiring was good, so I am ordering a spare. 

    I'm hoping it's some coating. I didn't have any material inside of the extruder. Is it okay to turn on my extruder to 200C for 5-10min without the extruder fan? I want to see if it smokes again within that time frame/if it fluctuates. 

    Assuming the thermistor type is wrong/bad contact, can I expect temp fluctuations from Reptier? That would make it easy to diagnose 
  • FreakFreak
    edited December 2017
    Looking back at the board, I just want to confirm this so I wouldn't have to worry about it; according to the wiring diagram  it seems like it doesn't matter which ends on the heating pipe wires are + or - (Even though on the board it does specify which one is + and -, and both wires are red) right? Where it does matter (such as the power), they do label it. Just wanting to confirm this so I can eliminate potential problems. 

    I'll try to heat up extruder when I get a confirmation it's okay to heat it up and test it with my multimeter. 
  • MartinHMartinH
    Your assumption with the heater wires is correct, and yes you can heat the nozzle without the cooling fan,
    The extruder cooling fan is there to prevent the fillament melting in the heatbreak tube.
    Try setting the nozzle temp at 160C,then try melting a piece of pla on the nozzle,at 160C, it should not melt.
    Then try increasing the temp until you can melt some pla on the nozzle,it should start melting at around 185C.
  • FreakFreak
    edited December 2017
    So while trying to replace the fan, two wires touched accidentally and it fried the fan/wires. While taking a closer look at the board, I saw this 

    The transistor (third one on the right) got blown and the wires for connecting to the board for the fan caught on fire.  If you look closely, there is a black spot on the board under/near transistor. 

    I can replace the fan no problem, but I am more worried about a few things.

    Do I need to replace the board? If it  isn't necessary , how can I assume the board won't be damaged in the future if I use it (as in, will the board catch on fire in the future as I am printing)? 

    Can I switch the extruder wires from E0 to E1 (They look to be identical so I don't see why not), and how can I know if damage has been done to the extruder? 

    Are there any potential problems I should look for? 

    After the incident I turned the printer back on and sent it home/moved it around, so the board isn't 100% fried. I've also measured the voltage from where the fan should be and it seems to be nominal (outputting 24v). If it is okay to switch from E0 to E1, I can then turn on the extruder and assume every thing is in working order except the fan. 
  • FreakFreak
    edited December 2017
    Forgot to add this here too 

    https://imgur.com/a/4uisL
  • RepetierRepetier
    Can not say anything about hardware since I'm only software developer, but think you still can use all working outputs. Shorts are always dangerous if your board has no fuse for protection. It is even possible that the chip is still ok and only mosfet is damaged.

    Switching E0 and E1 is no problem. In config tool you select anyway which pin to use for sensor and heater. Just make sure no other function uses same pin (e.g. fan if that output was used for fan before).
  • FreakFreak
    edited December 2017
    Wait in config tool? Wouldn’t it be in the firmware?

    And I tried looking in config tool and couldn’t find an option. Not sure what I’m looking for.

    If I did switch the option to use a different pin from E0 to E1, would electricity still run from the transistor associated with E0?
  • FreakFreak
    edited December 2017
    I see what you meant by config tool.

    I just opened up the original Firmware for the board and am looking at the firmware. What do I. Need to edit to switch from E0 to E1 for the extruder?

    Do I need change anything else or that’s it?
  • RepetierRepetier
    No need to change extruders. Just take the heater pin. Motor is ok or at least you did not meantion it was defect. So take HEATER_2_PIN for output instead of HEATER_0_PIN (1 is bed output).
  • FreakFreak
    Is there a way I can edit this with Repetier Host instead of the firmware?

    I know someone who had a K200 and he too switched from E0 to E1 but he said he didn’t touch the firmware.

    I’ll find HEATER_2_PIN in 30min
  • FreakFreak
    edited December 2017


    I'm confused as to what should be changed here? It looks like there's different boards available to use but I can't find mine on the list? (MKS base v1.5 control board).

    Also would say with your current knowledge, and with what you'd do, is it safe to try to run the extruder on E0  just to see what happens? 
  • RepetierRepetier
    The code you showed is for a board having only 2 outputs, so I think it is not your board.

    You need to change it in config tool only, no need to edit boards. That is why you select there the HEATER_2_PIN and the boards has already the pin set correctly.
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