HE K280 Calibration
I have a HE K280 printer and new to this.
First off, I homed the printer successfully, but whenever I tell it to go down -10 mm, it goes down really slow and it doesn't stop. I have a feeling this has something to do with Travel Feed Rate or Z Axis Feed Rate?
And are there any other tutorials on how to calibrate it with a auto level sensor? No offense but the link here is a bit confusing/it tells me to go into the firmware, which I don't think I want to do unless its necessary.
Thanks
First off, I homed the printer successfully, but whenever I tell it to go down -10 mm, it goes down really slow and it doesn't stop. I have a feeling this has something to do with Travel Feed Rate or Z Axis Feed Rate?
And are there any other tutorials on how to calibrate it with a auto level sensor? No offense but the link here is a bit confusing/it tells me to go into the firmware, which I don't think I want to do unless its necessary.
Thanks
Comments
Before going down check with M114 what firmware thinks where it is and what host thinks. If it differs after homing you need to configure host->printer settings->printer shape the coordinates after homing. Then 10mm move is also 10mm if steps per mm is correct.
Smoking is not what I would normally expect except if you have some coating that melts on first use. PLA does not smoke and ABS only smells. If the thermistor type is wrong the real temperature is different then the shown one. Also if the thermistor has bad contact it will show lower temperatures. If you have a multimeter with temp. sensor you can use that to compare for big differences. If not just check at which temperature you can push filament through an duse that temperature.
I'm hoping it's some coating. I didn't have any material inside of the extruder. Is it okay to turn on my extruder to 200C for 5-10min without the extruder fan? I want to see if it smokes again within that time frame/if it fluctuates.
Assuming the thermistor type is wrong/bad contact, can I expect temp fluctuations from Reptier? That would make it easy to diagnose
I'll try to heat up extruder when I get a confirmation it's okay to heat it up and test it with my multimeter.
The extruder cooling fan is there to prevent the fillament melting in the heatbreak tube.
Try setting the nozzle temp at 160C,then try melting a piece of pla on the nozzle,at 160C, it should not melt.
Then try increasing the temp until you can melt some pla on the nozzle,it should start melting at around 185C.
The transistor (third one on the right) got blown and the wires for connecting to the board for the fan caught on fire. If you look closely, there is a black spot on the board under/near transistor.
I can replace the fan no problem, but I am more worried about a few things.
Do I need to replace the board? If it isn't necessary , how can I assume the board won't be damaged in the future if I use it (as in, will the board catch on fire in the future as I am printing)?
Can I switch the extruder wires from E0 to E1 (They look to be identical so I don't see why not), and how can I know if damage has been done to the extruder?
Are there any potential problems I should look for?
After the incident I turned the printer back on and sent it home/moved it around, so the board isn't 100% fried. I've also measured the voltage from where the fan should be and it seems to be nominal (outputting 24v). If it is okay to switch from E0 to E1, I can then turn on the extruder and assume every thing is in working order except the fan.
https://imgur.com/a/4uisL
Switching E0 and E1 is no problem. In config tool you select anyway which pin to use for sensor and heater. Just make sure no other function uses same pin (e.g. fan if that output was used for fan before).
And I tried looking in config tool and couldn’t find an option. Not sure what I’m looking for.
If I did switch the option to use a different pin from E0 to E1, would electricity still run from the transistor associated with E0?
I just opened up the original Firmware for the board and am looking at the firmware. What do I. Need to edit to switch from E0 to E1 for the extruder?
Do I need change anything else or that’s it?
I know someone who had a K200 and he too switched from E0 to E1 but he said he didn’t touch the firmware.
I’ll find HEATER_2_PIN in 30min
I'm confused as to what should be changed here? It looks like there's different boards available to use but I can't find mine on the list? (MKS base v1.5 control board).
Also would say with your current knowledge, and with what you'd do, is it safe to try to run the extruder on E0 just to see what happens?
You need to change it in config tool only, no need to edit boards. That is why you select there the HEATER_2_PIN and the boards has already the pin set correctly.