plugged extruder tip

how to use the Repetier-Host panel to extrude filament without using an object file.

Comments

  • Heat extruder and then hit extrude button. Or use the matching gcode commands to send commands manually (easy mode off).
  • Is extrude button in host ver 2.0.2 the manual control screen "button" pad on the right with the extruder outline in the center? The pad to the right of the Z control? And, where do I find the gcode commands to send manually? (I'm a noobie, but I'm sure you've guessed that.)
  • Here you find description of gcode commands:
    http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Gcodes

    For extrusion G1, G92 are th emost relevant.
  • thank you for the information. i've certainly got a lot to learn. i'm not certain the extruder gear has deep enough teeth to drive the filament consistently. also, i'm not certain that heat creep isn't a part of the problem because roughly the first ten to fifteen layers seem to be full width and thickness but then skipping of filament output and inconsistent flow starts. if the filament is "helped" by manual downward pressure to assist pushing the liquified flow, the layers become more consistent. perplexing.
  • Sounds in deed like temperature creeping up adding more friction requiring more force. Best would then be adding a fan/cooler for the part where temperature creeps up. Or trying to print with lower temperature if possible.
  • Thanks for the tip. i'm going to try doing some serious testing varying both heat and print speed. have to learn about offsets and things like that. kudos for your help.
  • What type of extruder do you have, it may need adjusting to give more presure on the hobbed bolt feeder.
  • fixed diameter cogged "wheel" on a fixed peg in a cast body that bolts between the face of the motor and the face of the heatsink and fan. the fan is mounted to blow in the heatsink fins. that whole assembly is fastened above the extruder nozzle and the hotend. (sorry if i don't know all the proper terminology yet---  working on it). i have a CTC i3 clone.
  • There is also PLA with smaller melt zone like from polymaker, that would also reduce the problem. Drawback is that it is not cheap but prints very good. Faster printer speeds cool also better, but on long pauses the problem might come back then.
  • if it´s a E3d V6 Hotend or plagiate   keep retract as short as possible (if direct drive extruder keep it< 0.5mm)

    especially with PLA there are known issues with that hotend
  • where can i find out what the known issues are (it's direct drive type) so i have some idea what everyone has to deal with from the git-go, please.
  • edited August 4
    if i remember correct some details/issues are written on E3D Homepage


    https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/e3d-v6-keeps-jamming.5030/

    !!!!!!the blower to the fins hast to run at 100% all the time!!!!!  no need for PWM.

    mostly this blower is misunderstood as object cooler , whats wrong.

    use separate(pwm controlled) blower for objects



  • edited August 6
    tried to post a picture of the X axis showing the extruder/hot end/nozzle/fan assembly but can't figure out how to attach it, i'll just try and fudge setting for speed, width, thickness and temps and do what i can that way. thanks to all for your inputs...
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