First bowden is always a bit of extra problem. It is more like a long spring which means to remove the pressure from the nozzle you need to retract much more then on a direct extruder. I have a good bowden system only requiring 2-3mm retract and a bad one requiring 7mm. Direct extruders hardly need 1mm in comparison. Now if you have many small parts like dots you go over same filament several times. If extruder drive has much pressure this can flatten the filament. I even managed it to flatten it enough that it did not fit inside the tube. This is more a 3mm filament problem as 1.75mm extrudes much more so repetitons are less. The big retracts also make it impossible to use advance to reduce the blobs in edges where you get slower and then faster. And they are even more prominent due to the spring effect. Solutions here are using higher accelerations and jerks I guess. As long as speed stays constant for a while the quality will be good. Meaning if you can handle jerk 30 and print visible outside perimeter with 30-40mm/s you should get a much better outside finish then when printing 80mm/s. The faster you print the worser the bowden effect gets. Use speed for infill that is not visible, but not top/bottom layers. Here reduce speed for better quality.
Stringing happens on some materials more then others. For materials normally not stringing you net to remove the nozzle pressure, so find out how much you need to retract and how fast you can do it reliable. If motor losses steps or filament slips you win nothing, only defects and blobs. So you need to learn limits of your system and configure slicer to only go up the limits.
